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According to the National Safety Council, each year seven million Americans suffer disabling injuries and another 28,800 die as the
result of injuries sustained at home.
How can you be sure that your home is the safe, sweet haven that you want it to be? Home Safety Council and the National Safety Council
offer the following checklist of twenty safety items that no home should be without. For every item that you can check "Yes," you are
decreasing the risk that someone you love will suffer a home injury or fatality.
This checklist is not all-inclusive. Your home's age and design, amenities such as whirlpool tubs ,fireplaces, and decks, and the
physical condition of your home 's occupants may all dictate additional safety provisions. Customize your safety measures to meet those
special needs. Inspect your home regularly. Read warning labels and user manuals and file them where they can be found quickly.
Make sure your home has:
Smoke Alarms - Most home fire deaths happen between 10 o'clock at night and 6 o'clock in the morning. Many deaths are caused by smoke
and toxic gases, not the fire itself. Install smoke alarms on every level of your home, including the basement and workshop, and especially
near sleeping areas. For extra protection, consider installing a smoke alarm in every bedroom. Be sure to test batteries at least once a
month and never remove the batteries from your smoke alarm except to replace them.
Carbon Monoxide Alarm - Because CO is odorless, colorless, and tasteless, it often goes undetected. Carbon monoxide is a normal
by-product of combustion. Therefore, any fuel-burning appliance in your home is a potential CO source. Every home should have at least one
CO alarm placed in an area near sleeping rooms. Be sure your alarm displays the Underwriters Laboratories (UL 2034 ) label.
Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters - A ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is an electronic device that helps protect you from
serious injury by monitoring the electricity flowing in the circuit. If an imbalance occurs, the GFCI will almost instantly shut off the
current flowing through the circuit. A GFCI is essential in circuits to bathrooms, laundry facilities, kitchens, swimming pools, and outdoor
receptacles. Test the GFCI monthly by pressing the test button and then the reset button to see that it is operating properly.
Fire Extinguishers - A multipurpose dry chemical Class ABC fire extinguisher is the best choice for general home use. Mount the
extinguisher on a bracket on the wall near an exit so that anyone using it can escape from the room if a fire spreads. All adult occupants of
the home must know when and how to use the extinguisher properly.
Emergency Evacuation Plan - Make your plan now, before you need it. Have at least two exits from every room and include all
occupants of the home in practicing the plan.
Flashlights - Make sure the batteries are functional or use flashlights with built-in , rechargeable batteries. Keep the flashlights
readily accessible at bedsides and in the basement.
First Aid Kit - Keep a well-stocked first aid kit in your home. Make sure everyone knows where to find it and how and when to use the items
in it.
List of Emergency Phone Numbers - Post a list of emergency phone numbers including police, fire, doctors and poison prevention centers at
every telephone in the home. In the event of an emergency, time is of the essence and even a very young child can phone for help if the number is
available.
Tagged Shutoffs - Place tags on your home shut off valves for gas, oil, and water, and the main shutoff for your electrical supply. Know
how to safely turn off these services to your home in the event of an emergency.
Grab Bars - Install grab bars in all bathrooms and shower stalls. Firmly anchor them into the wall studs with long screws.
Slip-Resistant Finishes - Use a non-slip mat, or install strips or decals in bathtubs or showers to help prevent slipping.
Safety Glazing - Shower doors, patio doors, window walls, or any other large glass panel in your home should be made with safety
glazing materials (safety glass). Look for a permanent mark in the lower corner showing the manufacturers ' name, type of safety glass, and thickness.
Handrails - Properly shaped handrails on both sides of all stairs are important. Many stairs lack a handrail on one or both sides and too
often the handrail is hard to grip. Don't forget that stairs with just two or three steps (typical on the exterior of many homes) need handrails.
Step Stool/Utility Ladder - A lightweight, sturdy step stool or quality ladder is necessary for those hard-to-reach places, for hanging
pictures, and for cleaning and general home maintenance. Having it readily accessible will keep you from substituting with a chair.
Sufficient Lighting - Use night-lights near bathrooms, bedrooms, and stairwells. Make sure stairwells and hallways are always adequately lit.
Provide sufficient lighting to all walkways and entrances to your home.
In 1993,Lowe 's Home Improvement Warehouse founded Home Safety Council with the vision of creating safer American homes. Since then, Home Safety
Council has invested more than $20 million to educate children, adults, seniors and families on how to improve the safety and security in their homes.
For additional home safety information and free brochures, consumers can call 1-800-SAFE-HOME or visit The Home Safety Council (Link will open in a new window).
This material provides additional information about house components and routine home maintenance. The information is intended as a guide.
It is not exhaustive, and some of the information may not apply to your residence. We recommend the use of licensed (where applicable)
professionals with knowledge of the construction and systems particular to your house.
We applaud homeowners who actively maintain their residences. Maintaining your house may provide your own “Peace of Mind”, as well as economic
rewards. However, the structural, mechanical, electrical and plumbing systems of your house are complex. Care should always be taken:
In particular, we recommend a "spotter" (person to hold ladder while climbing) when using a ladder. Do not place ladder near wires or other obstacles,
which could pose a hazard.
Before attempting any plumbing repair, be certain that the shut off valve that controls the branch off system on which you are working is in good
working order. In case of unexpected damage to a plumbing fixture, you must be able to shut off the water to that area. Neglecting this precaution
could result in property damage.
Always turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker when working on any item through which electricity is running (e.g. hot water heater,
furnace, appliances, etc.)
While repairs are often all that is necessary for a roof surface to continue to perform satisfactorily, it is not uncommon for roofers to
recommend complete replacement of the surface as the only option. A licensed roofer should periodically check roofing surfaces and materials,
cement joints and flashing. Allow for annual inspection and maintenance of slate, asbestos shingle, wood shingle, wood shake and built up roofing.
Age and weather will cause deterioration.
Keep tree branches trimmed away from roof, chimney top, wires & house. Clean gutters & downspouts several times per year. Check soffit, fascia &
other trim for decay, leakage and flaking paint. We recommend steel weather caps, with mesh or grill sides for all masonry chimneys, to keep
rain and snow from entering chimney flue and to keep birds, squirrels or other pests out of chimney. If FRT plywood is identified, the homeowner
should regularly inspect FRT plywood for evidence of progressive deterioration. A periodic visual inspection by a roofer or qualified home inspector
may be advisable.
SLATE ROOFS - Roofing slates can crack or slide out of position. Ridges & flashings need to be resealed periodically. Allow for annual inspection
of your roof, and perform annual maintenance as required.
SHINGLE ROOFS - Sloped roofs are not watertight; per se. Water is shed much like an umbrella. Low pitch shingle applications are prone to
leakage, especially with driving rainstorms or damning ice. Allow for annual inspection of your roof, and perform annual maintenance as required.
FLAT ROOFS - Flat (most often, low pitch) roofing is designed to be impervious to water penetration; they are however prone to leaking and will
require more frequent maintenance. Tar and felt roofing surfaces generally require re-coating every 2-4 years, however it is not uncommon to
require annual repairs & maintenance. Always be certain there is no standing water for long periods of time (can accelerate deterioration).
BUILT-IN GUTTERS - Gutters of this type are prone to leakage and may require routine repair and/or replacement.
UNDERGROUND RUNOFFS - Underground drainpipes for window wells, areaway drains or other exterior surface drains are not evaluated as to
function or condition; inspect & maintain on a regular basis. It is not uncommon for clogging to occur resulting in a backup in your
basement, surrounding area and even an adjacent property.
COPPER GUTTER/FLASHING - Copper is prone to pitting (weakening & developing small holes). Regular inspection & maintenance as necessary
could help to delay this process.
GALVANIZED GUTTERING/FLASHING - Galvanized metal is prone to rusting. We recommend periodic painting of gutter interiors, flashing, and
skylight frames to inhibit rusting (“tar” coating is not recommended). Regular inspection & maintenance as necessary could help extend its life,
but replacement should be considered at some point as recommended by a professional.
EXTERIOR WASTE LINES - Exterior waste lines are sometimes prone to freezing.
SKYLIGHTS - Skylights in general are prone to leaking. Regular inspection & maintenance may help to prevent leakage, however there’s never 100%.
WOOD SHAKES/SHINGLES - Recommend yearly cleaning and treating every 2-4 years with an appropriate non-toxic wood preservative. Wood shingle or wood
shake roofs, as installed by most builders today, tend to have a much shorter life span than they did in the past. This is partly because of the
relatively poor quality of the shakes currently available on the market. Most builders today nail the shakes directly to the plywood roof or deck
rather than elevating them from the deck with raised nailing strips. The older method provided ventilation to the underside of the shakes or shingles.
The newer method does not, and contributes to the deterioration of the shakes or shingles.
METAL SURFACES - Recommend periodic painting of metal surfaces with a rust inhibiting paint. “Tar” coating is not recommended.
CHIMNEYS - Your inspection does not include the chimney or fireplace. We recommend a licensed chimney sweeps inspect & clean chimneys every year prior
to the burning season.
METAL or STEEL FRAME WINDOWS - This type of window is prone to condensation conditions, and may cause significant heating/cooling losses, i.e.
not energy efficient. Condensation can contribute to rotting of framing, trim or sills. Steel or other metals (except aluminum or composites) are
prone to rusting. We recommend periodic painting to inhibit rusting (“tar” coating is not recommended). Regular inspection & maintenance as necessary
could help extend its life, but replacement should be considered at some point as recommended by a professional. This type of window often does not
seal tightly and does not always open readily.
CASEMENT WINDOWS - Old windows of this type often do not seal tightly & frequently do not readily open. Cranks are often stripped or missing &
locks often do not function properly. Check weather-stripping; replace as needed & occasionally lubricate the hinge(s) & other metal – metal surfaces.
DOUBLE HUNG &/or SLIDER WINDOWS & DOORS - Regularly clean tracks & ensure drain holes are clear. Check weather-stripping; replace as needed.
EXTERIOR DOORS - Check weather-stripping; replace as needed & occasionally lubricate the hinge(s) & other metal – metal surfaces.
WALLS - Settlement and shrinkage cracks in masonry walls (and floors) are considered to be of a normal nature. Such cracks should be monitored by the
building owner and if the crack expands to ¼” or greater, a structural engineer or other licensed professional should be evaluate the situation.
DECKS - Decks built directly on the ground (or wood that has ground contact) are prone to rotting, wood boring insects, and premature weathering.
Wooden porches, railings, stairs etc. are prone to warping, shrinking, fading, splintering & a full array of other components; evaluate periodically &
correct as necessary. Problems have arisen with the attachment of additions, garage, decks, porches etc. to the dwelling. Unless special provisions are
made for securing the deck properly, it may pull loose from the house and could collapse, causing serious injury. A structural engineer or licensed
contractor may be necessary to fully evaluate & correct as required.
EXTERIOR STRUCTURE RECOMMENDATIONS
- Caulk exterior trim work, windows, and doors periodically & especially prior to painting.
- Store firewood & other wood products away from house (invitation to termites & other pests).
- Periodically check weather-stripping at doors and windows, clean tracks & ensure drain holes are clear.
- Periodically check painted surfaces for paint failure or paint flaking.
- Periodically check trim and siding for decay, looseness, damage, or warping.
- Periodically check masonry walls for cracks, looseness, and missing or broken mortar. Where steel or iron railing posts are set in concrete
porches or steps, installers frequently leave a depression in the concrete, which holds water around the post and rusts it through. Clean the
depression thoroughly & scrape rust from metal. Prime and paint with rust inhibiting paint. Then fill the depression with an epoxy type patching
cement to prevent water from collecting there.
- Check periodically, steps, retaining walls, walks, patios, driveways, garage floor, etc., for cracks, heaving, or crumbling.
- Check areaway drain/cover regularly to minimize chance of back up.
ATTACHED/DETACHED BUILDINGS
- Periodically check automatic garage door opener for proper operation of automatic reverse/stop. Check rollers and tracks for signs of
excessive wear and be certain that all of the moving parts are properly lubricated. Also be certain to periodically re-tighten the screws &
bolts in both the door(s) & associated hardware.
- Modern building codes require that where a house has an attached garage, the door between the house and the garage must be fire rated and
must be self-closing. Many older houses do not meet this requirement because it was not part of the code when they were built. If this is the
case in your house, we recommend replacing the door with one, which meets current code.
- Modern building codes require that where a house has an attached garage, the floor of the garage must be several inches below the floor of
the house. This is so that, in case of any gasoline spillage or leakage from a vehicle, the fumes, which are heavier than air, will not flow
readily into the house. If your garage floor does not comply with the above, we recommend installing a vent on an outside wall, at floor level,
to provide egress for fuel fumes. Installation of a CO detector would be helpful, as well.
CENTRAL HEATING - We recommend annual professional maintenance and service contracts on all heating units, including but not limited to water heater,
and annual servicing of heating and cooling equipment, especially oil burner equipment. The fuel/air ratio of the oil burner tends to get out of
adjustment easily, causing an orange smoke, smoky flame, which wastes fuel and generates soot.
STEAM (often heats unevenly)
- Annually, check boiler valves and gauges, and radiator valves and connectors. Allow for periodic repairs to radiator valves and connections
due to normal wear and tear.
- Low water cut off should be flushed frequently to prevent sediment accumulation, which can prevent proper operation of cut-off.
- Check sight glass regularly for proper water level.
HOT WATER
- Allow for periodic “air” bleeding of radiators/baseboards to release trapped air for efficient operation. Allow for periodic repairs to
radiator valves and connections due to normal wear and tear.
- Lubricate circulator pump annually.
- Allow for yearly draining of air cushion (expansion) tank if necessary.
- Check pressure/temperature gauges monthly during heating season. Pressure should be between 10 & 20 psi (pounds per square inch),
Temperature should be between 160° F- 180° F.
RADIANT - Radiant systems may be repair prone and are subject to higher repair costs due to concealed nature of the system.
HOT AIR/HEAT PUMP - Heat pump thermostat should be operated with care as serious damage may be done to compressor unit if the system is
operated in heating mode during cooling season or cooling mode during heating season. Recommend you obtain Heat Pump Operating Instructions from
seller or manufacturer. Also do not attempt to force the unit into its “defrost cycle”, heat pumps are calibrated to enter into the defrost mode
only when needed.
- Change air filter(s) as necessary (usually once/month during the heating season).
- Annually vacuum blower/fan section & coil fins.
- Clean humidifier (if supplied) during and after the heating season.
- Clean/service electronic air cleaning equipment (if supplied) according to manufacturer’s specifications.
OIL TANK - We recommend to regularly inspect for leaks & keeping the tank “full” in the summer to minimize condensation and rusting of tank interior.
You should also consider an additive to help prevent sludge & to evaporate excessive moisture. Check with your heating fuel supplier for further
recommendations. A leaking underground or above ground fuel storage tank may present a significant environmental hazard.
COOLING SYSTEM - Operation of a compressor condenser unit when the outdoor temperature is below 65° F can result in serious damage to the unit.
Recommend annual professional maintenance and service contract on air conditioning equipment including electrical contact points, Freon pressure,
compressor slab level, cleanliness of compressor, etc.
- Clean around compressor unit, removing leaves, dust, overgrown shrubbery, and debris. Be sure power is off.
- Change or clean air filter several times during cooling season.
- Vacuum fan section annually: dust buildup on cooling coil will reduce cooling efficiency and can clog condensate drain.
- Check condensate drain periodically for backup or spillage especially when fan coil units are located in an attic space.
WASTE DISPOSAL SYSTEM RECOMMENDATIONS
- Professional servicing of waste disposal system every two years or more frequently if indicated.
- Colored or printed-paper should not be used in waste disposal system (unless approved by the manufacturer). Dyes prevent decomposition of paper.
- Chemical or biological aids should not be placed in the system, as they may be detrimental to the function of the absorption system.
PLUMBING SYSTEM - If a house has been vacant, the plumbing system may be prone to leakage and/or slow drains.
SHOWER PANS - Shower pans are prone to leakage.
INTERIOR SHUTOFF VALVES - The main water shutoff valve in many houses may go for years without ever being operated. Under these conditions,
the valve may become frozen with corrosion so it can no longer be turned. It if is a seat-and-washer type valve, the washer may crumble and
break up, so even if the valve turns, it may not stop the water. If your main shutoff valve is of this type (a "globe valve") and is old,
then we recommend it be replaced with a "gate valve" or a lever operated "stopcock" type of valve. In any case the main shutoff should be
"exercised" (i.e. operated) annually to ensure that it works and does not leak.
GENERAL PLUMBING RECOMMENDATIONS
- Drain exterior water lines, hose connections, and sprinklers in fall.
- Periodically check faucets, valves, and hose bibs for leakage.
- Periodically check for leaks at housetraps, sewer cleanouts, and sinks.
- To prolong hot water heater life, drain off sediment from bottom of tank monthly or per manufacturer's instructions.
- Periodically caulk around tubs, showers, enclosures, and floor tile to keep bathrooms watertight.
- Maintain condition of bath tile.
- Check washing machine hoses frequently for signs of deterioration. A hose in good condition should be supple and flexible. If hoses become
stiff or seem "brittle", or show signs of cracks blisters or bulges, replace them.
- Older washing machine drain standpipes are usually only 1 ½ “diameter pipe. Modern washing machines discharge their water faster than the older
machines and require a 2” standpipe. If your laundry facility has a 1 ½” diameter standpipe, you may have to upgrade it to 2” diameter pipe to
accommodate a new washing machine.
- Older galvanized piping will be subject to periodic repair/replacement.
- Older drain lines and connections will require periodic cleaning and repairs.
- Older plumbing fixtures will require periodic maintenance and repairs.
WATER HEATER - For personal safety - disconnect the power before removing cover plate to electric water heater. Do not store flammable materials on
top of, against or near gas or oil-fired water heaters.
GENERAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM RECOMMENDATIONS
- Use proper size fuses in fuse panels.
- Operate circuit breaker switches every six months to break possible oxide coating built up on switches.
- Test ground fault interrupters (GFI) monthly. Ground fault interrupters protect circuits where damp conditions and electrical leakage can
cause a serious shock.
- Keep trees and bushes trimmed back from wiring and cables.
- If touching an appliance results in a slight tingling shock, have appliance checked.
- Replace any receptacle that no longer grips a plug firmly and securely. If a plug tends to fall out or pull out of a receptacle very easily,
the plug can overheat and become a potential fire hazard.
- Replace any wall switch where the toggle feels loose or sloppy when the switch is operated.
- Replace any wall switch that produces a visible spark or which makes an audible buzzing or arcing when operated.
- Inspect the plastic (Bakelite) sockets in ceiling fixtures annually. After years of service the Bakelite shell of the socket tends to
become brittle and disintegrate. Inspect the contact button at the bottom of the socket. If it appears blackened or heavily oxidized,
replace the socket.
- Allow for periodic repairs to electrical switches, outlets, and fixtures due to normal wear factors.
“LIVE FRONT” FUSE PANEL - Since there is no protective interior cover, a “live front” fuse panel poses a potential hazard, (shock or electrocution).
Replacement with an upgraded circuit breaker panel is recommended.
CIRCUIT BREAKER PANELS - It is generally difficult to locate replacements for older brands. Federal Pacific brand may be repair prone. Some of this
equipment has been known to not perform satisfactorily.
KNOB & TUBE WIRING - Due to the age and limitations of this type of wiring, upgrading is recommended. If the insulation on this wiring is
damaged, or if additional circuits have been spliced into knob & tube wiring, a potential hazard may exist.
ALUMINUM WIRING ON 120VOLT CIRCUITS - Without proper connections, aluminum wiring on 120-volt circuits is a potential fire hazard. Consumer Product
Safety Commission recommends AMP, Inc. connections as the only safe method. Other methods are available and approved by local counties. Recommend
having all 120volt connections checked +/or improved by a licensed electrician.
LOW VOLTAGE LIGHTING SYSTEMS - Systems of this type tend to require higher maintenance due to the use of relays. As relays fail, they must be
replaced. Replacement parts may no longer be available and therefore the system may require conversion to a conventional type. Most of the modern
systems are universal. If adding lights, be certain not to exceed the wattage that is capable from the supplied transformer.
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